Kyckling!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här! 

Nu är mönstret klart till de här roliga kycklingarna som har spinkiga långa ben och kroppar som är formade som stora ägg. De kycklingarna jag virkat är i lite olika garn, men mönstret är i vanligt bomullsgarn som passar till virknål 3,5. Håll till godo och lycka till med virkningen!


Kropp i gult garn:
Varv 1: 6 fm i en magisk ring
Varv 2: 2 fm i varje maska varvet ut (12)
Varv 3: 1 fm, 2 i 1 varvet ut (18)
Varv 4: 1 fm ,2 i 1 varvet ut (27)
Varv 5: 13 fm, 2 i 1, upprepa 2 gånger (29)
Varv 6- 12: fm
Varv 13: 6 fm, virka nästa två fm tillsammans, upprepa 3 gånger, 5 fm (26)
Varv 14: virka nästa två maskor tillsammans, 5 fm, upprepa det 5 gånger, virka nästa 2 maskor tillsammans, 3 fm (22)
Varv 15: virka 5 fm, virka nästa 2 maskor tillsammans, upprepa 3 gånger, 1 fm (19)
Varv 16: virka fm
Varv 17: virka 2 maskor tillsammans, 4 fm, upprepa 3 gånger, virka fm varvet ut (16)
Stoppa kycklingen.
Varv 18: virka 2 maskor tillsammans varvet ut (8)
Varv 19: byt till rött garn och virka fm. (8)
Kläm ihop toppen på kycklingen och virka fm igenom kammen 4 gånger, 1 luftmaska att vända på, vänd arbetet.
Virka 2 stolpar i första maskan på kammen, 1 sm i 2:a maskan på kammen, 5 lm, 1 sm i den 3:e maskan på kammen, avsluta med att virka 2 stolpar i den sista maskan på kammen, 1sm och fäst garnet.

Ben i orange garn, virka två likadana:
Virka 25 lm, gör en sm i den 5:e fm från virknålen (första tån), virka 5 lm och virka en sm på samma ställe som första tån sitter fast i, virka 3:e tån på samma sätt, virka sedan sm tillbaka längst med hela benen upp igen.
Montera benen på kroppen lite i framkanten så att kycklingen kan sitta fint.

Näbb i rött garn:
Virka 5 lm, virka i sm i första lm, virka 5 lm och virka en sm i samma maska som sist så blir det en liten näbb. Montera sedan näbben och sy fast eller brodera ett par ögon.

Virknåls förvaring!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Supplies:

3 different colors of Crochet Cotton Size 10 or fingering  weight yarn (this is a thinner yarn than the worsted weight stuff)
crochet hook: size D
paper towel tube
small piece of sturdy cardboard
white sheet of paper (the tube shows through in parts, and white is just prettier than that brownish color)
yarn needle
Gauge:
1 square should measure approximately 1-3/4" across.

Make the circles (make 2):
Make a slip knot and chain 1.
Round 1:  8 sc in the beginning slip knot. Join with sl st to first sc. Ch 1, do not turn.
Round 2:  2 sc in joining st, and in each st around, 16 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Ch 1, do not turn.
Round 3:  1 sc in joining st, * 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st *. Repeat from * to * all the way around, 24 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Ch 1 with a new color, do not turn.
Round 4:  1 sc in joining st, 1 sc in next st,  2 sc in next st. *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * all the way around, 32 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Ch 1, do not turn.
Round 5:  1 sc in joining st, 1 sc in next 2 sts,  2 sc in next st. *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * all the way around, 40 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Yippee! You have finished a circle! Now make another one more for the other end of the tube.

The Circle Square (make 8):----I know it sounds funny, but I didn't know what else to call it.
Make 8 more of the circles described above. The next round will turn your circles into squares.

Round 6: Join and ch 3 with white (or some other color as desired). * Hdc in next 2 sts, 5 sc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next 2 sts, in the next st make 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc (this makes a corner) *. Repeat from * to *, 3 more times. On the last repeat, you will end with a 1 dc, ch2, and then sl st into the second chain of the beginning ch 3.

Joining:

Stack 2 squares with right sides facing.
Sc along one edge through both pieces so that you are joining the two squares together.
Repeat this step 3 more times.
Top:

Choose one of the sets to be the top. Repeat the "Joining" step on the other side of the squares to make a tube.
Turn inside out and whip stitch one of the circles to one end of the tube.
Bottom:

Repeat the "Joining" step three more times along the long edges of the joined squares to make a piece that is 2 squares across by 4 squares down.
Fold the piece in half long ways and repeat the "Joining" step along the long edge to form a long tube.
Turn inside out and whip stitch the other circle to one end of the tube.
Putting it all together:

Note: the shorter of the two crocheted tubes will be the "top" and the longer one will be the "bottom".
From the sturdy piece of cardboard, cut 2 circles (1-5/8" diameter). Insert these circles into the bottom ends of the two tubes you just crocheted.
Cut off a 1-3/4" section of the paper towel tube. Cut a piece of white paper to measure 1-3/4" x 6". Tape this white sheet to the outside of the tube.Insert the tube into the "top" crocheted piece. This may take a bit of stretching but if your piece is crocheted to gauge, it should fit nice and snug. Note: If it absolutely will not fit, don't despair! You can simply cut the length of the tube, remove 1/4" or so and re-tape it.
Cut off a 7" section of paper towel tube for the "bottom". Before covering this tube with a piece of white paper ( 6-1/4" x 6-1/4"), make sure to slice the tube along it's length and remove about 1/4". Re-tape the tube and tape on the paper. Making this piece a little narrower than the top piece ensures that the top slides easily over the bottom when closing up your needle case!
Insert the tube into the bottom crocheted section. A slight twisting motion helps if it is a little bit snug.The crocheted edge should come up to the edge of the white sheet of paper
Fill 'er up crocheters!

Hjärtekatten

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Garnförslag:
Drops Muskat från Garnstudio Essentials Cotton från Rico Design
Cotton Time från Schachenmayr nomotta
Viva från Marks & Kattens
Soft Cotton från Järbo Garn
Mandarin Classic från Sandnes Garn

Virknål: 3 mm (eller den storlek du behöver).

Övrigt: Fyllningsvadd, plastgranulat/ris som tyngd i tassar och rumpa, nål för montering och broderi samt en lapp/etikett för ditt och kattens namn.

Platsgranulat/ris: Armarna, benen samt nedre delen av kroppen (alltså rumpan) kan fyllas med lite plastgranulat eller ris för att de ska få lite tyngd. Lägg granulatet/riset i lite tyg eller använd en gammal nylonstrumpa så att kornen inte läcker ut genom maskorna.
Glöm inte: Att märka Hjärtekatten med en lapp med kattens namn, ditt namn och din bloggadress (om du har en). Skicka gärna med en liten lapp som berättar vad du stoppat Hjärtekatten med och om den virkats i en miljö med husdjur/rök/starka parfymer.




Starta virkningen med något av följande alternativ:

Loop
Klipp av 20 cm garn, forma en ögla på mitten med ca 3-4 cm storlek på cirkeln.
Ta garnet du ska virka med och gör en ögla på nålen som vanligt. Stick in nålen i loopens mitt, så att när du börjar virka runt garnet i loopen så kommer loopens garn löpa som en kabel inuti maskorna du virkar. Virka runt loopgarnet och dra sedan i dess båda ändar så den dras åt och sluts till en ring.

Magisk ring
Liknar loop, men garnet klipps inte av. Sök på youtube för beskrivning.

Två luftmaskor
Gör två luftmaskor och virka varv ett i den andra luftmaskan från nålen. Detta alternativ är det lättaste, men det blir ett litet hål i mitten.

Innan du börjar: Bestäm om du vill virka huvud och kropp var för sig eller en torso. Katten får samma storlek och form oavsett men du slipper ett sömnadsmoment genom att virka torson.

TORSO:
Huvud och kropp virkad i ett stycke.

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 3: *1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)
v 4: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 5: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 6: *4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 7: *5 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=42 fm)
v 8: *6 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=48 fm)
v 9 - v 15: 1 fm i varje fm (=48 fm)
v 16: *6 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=42 fm)
v 17: *5 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 18: *4 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 19: *3 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6ggr (=24 fm)
v 20: *2 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)

Stoppa huvudet med fyllningsvadd och fortsätt sedan med kroppen.

v 21 – v 23: 1 fm i varje fm (=18 fm)
v 24: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 25 – v 26: 1 fm i varje fm (=24 fm)
v 27: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 28 – v 29: 1 fm i varje fm (=30 fm)
v 30: *4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 31 – v 47: 1 fm i varje fm (=36 fm)

Stoppa kroppen med fyllningsvadd och ev. plastgranulat/ris.

v 48: *4 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 49: *3 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 50: *2 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)
v 51: *1 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=12 fm)
v 52: *1 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=6 fm)

Tag av garnet med 20 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Stoppa i lite extra fyllningsvadd innan du drar åt.

HUVUD:

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 3: *1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)
v 4: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 5: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 6: *4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 7: *5 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=42 fm)
v 8: *6 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=48 fm)
v 9 - v 15: 1 fm i varje fm (=48 fm)
v 16: *6 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=42 fm)
v 17: *5 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 18: *4 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 19: *3 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6ggr (=24 fm)
v 20: *2 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Stoppa huvudet med fyllningsvadd.

KROPP:

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 3: *1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)
v 4: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 5: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 6: *4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 6 ggr (=36 fm)
v 7 - v 23: 1 fm i varje fm (=36 fm)
v 24: *4 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=30 fm)
v 25 - v 26: 1 fm i varje fm (=30 fm)
v 27: *3 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=24 fm)
v 28 - v 29: 1 fm i varje fm (=24 fm)
v 30: *2 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 6 ggr (=18 fm)
v 31 - v 32: 1 fm i varje fm (=18 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Stoppa kroppen med fyllningsvadd och ev. plastgranulat/ris och sy sedan ihop den med huvudet.

ÖRA:

v 1: Virka 4 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=8 fm)
v 3: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 2 ggr (=10 fm)
v 4: *4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 2 ggr (=12 fm)
v 5: *5 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 2 ggr (=14 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Virka ett öra till och sy fast dem på huvudet.

NOS:

v 1: Virka 7 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=14 fm)
v 3 – v 10: 1 fm i varje fm (=14 fm)

Fyll nosen med lite fyllnadsvadd.

v 11: 3 fm tills, 4 fm tills, 4 fm tills, 3 fm tills (=4 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Sy fast nosen på tvären i ansiktet och brodera ögon, nos och mun.



ARM:

Vill du ha tvåfärgade armar börjar du med den färg du vill ha på handen.

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 3 - v 6: 1 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 7: *1 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 4 ggr (=8 fm)

Stoppa handen med lite fyllningsvadd och ev. plastgranulat/ris innan du fortsätter med den färg du vill ha på armen.

v 8 - v 28: 1 fm i varje fm (=8 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Vill man kan man stoppa armen med lite fyllningsvadd. Virka en arm till och sy sedan fast dem på kroppen.

BEN:

Vill du ha tvåfärgade ben börjar du med den färg du vill ha på foten.

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: 2 fm i varje fm (=12 fm)
v 3: *3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 3 ggr (=15 fm)
v 4 - v 7: 1 fm i varje fm (=15 fm)
v 8: *1 fm, 2 fm tills* Upprepa 5 ggr (=10 fm)

Stoppa foten med lite fyllningsvadd och ev. plastgranulat/ris innan du fortsätter med den färg du vill ha på benet.

v 9 - v 28: 1 fm i varje fm (=10 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Vill man kan man stoppa benet med lite fyllningsvadd. Virka ett ben till och sy sedan fast dem på kroppen.

SVANS:

v 1: Virka 6 fm runt loopen, i den magiska ringen eller i luftmaskan.
v 2: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa 2 ggr (=8 fm)
v 3 - v 22: 1 fm i varje fm (=8 fm)

Tag av garnet med 30-40 cm tillgodo och drag genom öglan. Vill man kan man stoppa svansen med lite fyllningsvadd. Sy fast svansen på kroppen.

HJÄRTA:

Detta är ett förslag på ett hjärta, men du kan lika gärna använda ditt eget favoritmönster.

v 1: 2 lm, 1 fm i andra lm från nålen. 1 lm, vänd. (2 fm)
v 2: 2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm. 1 lm, vänd. (4 fm)
v 3: *2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm* Upprepa varvet ut. 1 lm, vänd. (8 fm)
v 4: 2 fm i första fm, 1 fm i varje till sista fm, 2 fm i sista fm, 1 lm, vänd. (10 fm)
v 5: 2 fm i första fm, 1 fm i varje till sista fm, 2 fm i sista fm, 1 lm, vänd. (12 fm)
v 6: 12 fm.

Nu virkas en hjärthalva i taget.

v 7: 2 fm tills, 2 fm, 2 fm tills, 1 lm. Vänd. (4 fm)
v 8: 2 fm tills, upprepa 2 ggr, 1 lm. Vänd. (2 fm)

Tag av garnet och virka likadant på andra sidan. Fäst trådarna, brodera ett ärr på hjärtat och sy fast det på kattens bröst.

Flätmönster!

Här är en Youtub fil på flätmönster! 

Grytlappar!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Mönstret finns på sidan som en PDF!

Barn mössa!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

This hat fits a 12/18 months toddler, but it can be adapted to any size by increasing the base chain by multiples of 8 and adding rows.
Materials
5mm crochet hook
4,5 mm circular needles or 5 DPNs
Less than 1 50g skein of baby yarn. (For the one in the photo I used Ice Yarns Baby Wool Print)
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations
dc - double crochet
slst - slip stitch
ch - chain

1 - Ch 64 (loosely, for added stretchiness) and close ring with slst on ch1.
2 - Ch3, 2dc, ch1, skip one stitch, *3 dc, ch1, skip 1 stitch*, and repeat ** to end of row, slst on top of ch3.
3 - slst to the gap between the groups of 3 dc (slst inside the gap because the next ch3 will pose as a dc in this group of 3 dc), ch 3 and 2 dc in the gap, ch 1, *3 dc in the next gap, ch 1*, repeat to end of row. slst on top of ch3. Repeat this row 7 times. Your hat has now 9 rows.
10 - slst to the gap between the 2 groups of 3 dc, ch3 and 2 dc in the gap, *3 dc in the next gap (no ch between)*, and repeat ** to end of row. Slst on top of ch3.
11 - Repeat row 10.
12 - Sl st to the gap between the groups of 3 dc, ch3 and 1 dc in gap, ch1, *2 dc in gap, ch1* and repeat ** to end of row. Slst on top of ch3.
13 - Repeat row 12 but without the ch1 between the groups of 2 dc.
14 - Slst to gap between groups of 2 dc, ch4, dc in the next gap, *ch1, dc crochet in the next gap* and repeat ** to end of row. Slst on top of ch3. Cut yarn leaving about 7 '' to bind off and sew the opening.
Now you are going to knit the ribbed edge of your hat. Pick up 64 stitches with your crochet hook and place them on the Circular needles or 4 DPNs (16 stitches each). Knit 7 of 2x2 ribbing in the round (knit 2, purl 2) and bind off loosely, for stretchiness.
To close the top of your hat, put the yarn through every stitch of the opening and pull it. Sew the opening on the inside of the hat and weave in ends.
Cut 9 pieces of yarn about 15'' long and get them through 2 of the gaps between dc of the last row on the top of your hat so that the ends are all even (folded in half). Divide the 18 pieces of yarn in 3 groups of 6 and braid until desired length (my braid is about 5,5'') and secure it with a knot. Cut the ends. And it's done!


All my patterns and tutorials are available for free. But if you wish to help me maintain this blog and support my work here, your donation will be most welcomed and used in my new projects. Thank you!!!

Regnbågs mössa!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Here's the pattern for a standard 18 inch child size hat - this hat is very easily adapted to bigger or smaller sizes by increasing or decreasing the initial chain:

Yarn:  Any worsted weight yarn.  I used cotton, but I think any similar weight yarn would work.  For my hat I used red, orange, yellow, lime green, kelly green, aqua, navy, and plum.

Hook:  J Hook

Gauge:  11 stitches and 5.5 rows is approximately a 4 inch square.

Pattern:

HAT:

Note: Hat is worked from the top down working two rows of dc for each color, except for purple which is 4 rounds of sc.

With red yarn, ch 50, join with sl st without twisting chain.

Rd 1: Ch 1 loosely, dc around, join with sl stitch to first dc. (50).
Rd 2: Ch 1 loosely, turn, dc around, using orange, join with sl st to first dc of round. (50).
Rd 3-14:  Repeat rounds 1 and 2 using orange, then yellow, then lime green, then kelly green, then aqua, and then navy for 2 rounds each.
Rd 15: Ch 1, with purple, sc in same st and around, join with sl st to first sc of round. (50).
Rd 16-18: Ch 1, do not turn, sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round. (50).

Fasten and weave in your ends.

With hat inside out, sc the top of the hat closed.  Fasten and weave in your ends.

TASSELS:

Note:  Your tassels will be worked with 4 rounds of dc for each color.

With red yarn, ch 7, join with sl st without twisting ch.

Rd 1-4: Ch 1 loosely, turn, dc around, join with sl st to first dc of round. (7).
Rd 5-32: Repeat rounds 1-4 using orange, then yellow, then lime green, then kelly green, then aqua, and then navy for 4 rounds each.

POM POMS:

I used this tutorial by Made to make the pom-poms.  There are many ways to do it, but I felt this was the easiest (and the prettiest!).

Finishing:  Weave in all your ends.  Attach tassels to hat at either side.  Attach pom poms to corners of the hat and at the bottoms of the tassels.  ENJOY!!!

Pom Pom Mössa!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Materials:
  Worsted Weight Yarn
  G Hook
  Tape Measure
  Yarn Needle
  Pom Pom Maker

1st- Get the measurment of the head circumfrence
2nd- Get measurment from brow to crown
These measurements will determine the size of the hat.
This pattern is written out to fit a 19 1/2 in. head and 7 in. brow to crown.

Brim:
Row 1: Ch 11, Sc in 2nd Ch from hook, Sc in each Ch across, Ch 1, (10 Sc)
Row 2: In back loops only, Sc in each St across, Ch 1 (10 Sc)
Row 3-70: In back loops only, Sc in each St across, Ch 1 (10 Sc)

When you reach the point where it is at least an inch smaller than head circumfrence, start joining the 1st row to the last row with Sl St. For a toddler size, I made 70 rows. Once you've joined the brim together, Ch 1.

Hat:
Row 71: Sc in end of each row, join with a Sl St to beginning Ch 1, Ch 2, Do not turn (70 Sc)
Row 72: Dc in same St and in each St across, join with a Sl St to beginning Ch 2, Ch 2 (70 Dc)
Row 73-81: Dc in same St and in each St across, join with a Sl St to beginning Ch 2, Ch 2 (70 Dc)

When you reach the point that the hat fits from brow to crown, turn hat inside out (do NOT cut yarn!) and join the last row of the hat together with a Sl St all the way across. Finish off.

Make Pom Poms and join to top corners of the hat! Enjoy! :)

Barn mössa!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

This Circus hat is a fun, pointed earflap hat for toddlers. I recommend making them in several bright colors with contrasting trim.

This pattern is easy, but there are a lot of color changes.

MATERIALS:  I (5.5mm) hook, 5 colors of WW yarn, scissors, yarn needle, pom pom maker.

SIZE:  Toddler-Child Size

STITCH GUIDE: CA/CB/CC – color A/B/C, CH – chain, DC – double crochet, HDC – half double crochet, MC - main color, SC – single crochet, SL ST – slip stitch, ST – stitch

NOTES:  When joining at the end of each round, complete the last stitch of the round by pulling up the final loop with the next color.  I also recommend carrying MC along the inside of the hat instead of fastening off each time you use it.  The CH-1 or CH-2 at the beginning of each round does NOT count as a stitch.

Using CA, start with magic loop.

Round 1: CH 2, 8 DC in ring, join. (8 DC) Change to MC.
Round 2: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (8 SC) Change to CB.
Round 3: CH 2, 2 DC in each SC around, join. (16 DC) Change to MC.
Round 4: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (16 SC) Change to CC.
Round 5: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next ST* around, join. (24 DC) Change to MC.
Round 6: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (24 SC) Change to CD.
Round 7: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 2 STS* around, join. (32 DC) Change to MC.
Round 8: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (32 SC) Change to CA.
Round 9: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 3 STS* around, join. (40 DC) Change to MC.
Round 10: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (40 SC) Change to CB.
Round 11: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 4 STS* around, join. (48 DC) Change to MC.
Round 12: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (48 SC) Change to CC.
Round 13: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 5 STS* around, join. (56 DC) Change to MC.
Round 14: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (56 SC) Change to CD.
Round 15: CH 2, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 6 STS* around, join. (64 DC) Change to MC.
Round 16: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (64 SC) Change to CA.
Round 17: CH 2, 1 DC in each SC around, join. (64 DC) Change to MC.
Round 18: CH 1, SC in each DC around, join. (64 SC) Change to CB.
Round 19: CH 2, 1 DC in each SC around, join. (64 DC)  Fasten off.

EAR FLAPS
Keep Right Side of hat facing you at all times; do not turn at the end of each row. Fasten off after each row.  Depending on size made, join colors in sequence where you left off.

Right Flap - Starting at back seam, count 9 STS to the left.
Row 1: Join MC with SC, SC in next 10 STS. (11 SC)
Row 2: Join CA with SL ST in 1st SC, CH 1, HDC in next 10 STS. (10 HDC)
Row 3: Join MC with SC in 1st HDC, SC in next 9 STS. (10 SC)
Row 4: Join CB with SL ST in 1st SC, CH 1, HDC in next 9 STS. (9 HDC)
Row 5: Join MC with SC in 1st HDC, SC in next 8 STS. (9 SC)
Row 6: Join CC with SL ST in 1st SC, CH 1, HDC in next 8 STS. (8 HDC)
Row 7: Join MC with SC in 1st HDC, SC in next 7 STS. (8 SC)
Row 8: Join CD with SL ST in 1st SC, CH 1, HDC in next 7 STS. (7 HDC)
{Work additional rows for longer flaps.}

Left Flap – Starting at back seam, count 20 STS to the right.  Follow same instructions as right flap.

FINISHING
Join MC at back seam with SL ST, HDC along to edge of 1st ear flap.
SC evenly around ear flap, putting 2-3 SC in each corner.
HDC along front of hat to edge of 2nd ear flap.
SC evenly around ear flap, putting 2-3 SC in each corner, join with SL ST and fasten off.
BRAID TIES (make 2) – Cut 6-9 lengths of yarn. String through each of the middle 3 SC’s at the bottom of the ear flap. Separate into 3 strands, braid it & tie off at the bottom.
Add a pom pom to the top (not too big, or it will weigh down the point) and you're done!

Haj mössa!

Bild och mönster har jag lånat här!

Materials
~gray yarn
~pink yarn
~white yarn
~some black yarn and an eye color yarn
~I hook for adult size (you will have to figure out the changes for smaller sizes, sorry)
~G hook for teeth
~tapestry or yarn needle for sewing parts on

NOTE: this is worked in Amigurumi style, this means the rounds are not joined and the rounds are a continuous spiral.
This pattern was made by looking at the finished product so it is pretty accurate. May be a bit confusing, and is not tested, this is why it is free.
You may make as many shark hats from this as you like if they are for you or for a gift, but don't sell any hats that you make from this pattern.
Do not try and sell or claim this pattern as your own.

TAIL & BODY

tail fin 1

with grey yarn and I hook ch2
rnd 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook.- 4 stitches
rnd 2: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next sc* 2 times- 6 stitches
rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 2 scs* 2 times - 8 stitches
rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 3 scs* 2 times - 10 stitches
rnd 5: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 4 scs* 2 times - 12 stitches
rnd 6: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 5 scs* 2 times - 14 stitches
rnd 7: 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, (decrease over next 2 scs) twice

(this part is kind of tricky, i just counted that i did 42 sc's as i went around) counts as about 2.5 rnds

next rnd:(decrease over next 2 scs) twice, 1 sc in next 23 sts
(decrease over next 2 scs) twice, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, (decrease over next 2 scs) twice, single crochet in next 2 sts, slip st looseley into next stitch and fasten off 8 or 9 sts total

tail fin 2

work as tail fin 1 but DO NOT fasten off at the end!

another tricky part to explain:
join the tail fins to make the complete tail by single crocheting around half of the current fin (tail fin 2) and joining up the other fin and working a complete round on that one, and then finishing the other half of the 2nd fin. total you'll have about 16-18 stitches. if there's a hole in the middle where you joined, you can sew it if you like.
counts as rnd 1 of tail.

rnd 2: 1 sc in each stitch around if you had 18 sts in the previous round. if you had less than 18, then increase tso you have 18 sts in that round.
rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts) twice - 20 sts total
rnd 4-7: 1 sc in each stitch around - 20 sts total
rnd 8: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) twice - 22 sts
rnd 9 1 sc in each st around - 22 sts total
rnd 10: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts) twice - 24 sts
rnd 11: 1 sc in each st around - 24 sts
rnd 12: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts) twice - 26 sts
rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around - 26 sts
rnd 14: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts) twice - 28 sts
rnd 15: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts) 4 times - 32 sts
rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around - 32 sts
rnd 17: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts) 4 times - 36 sts
rnds 18- 21: 1 sc in each st around - 36 sts
rnd 19: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts) 4 times - 40 sts
rnd 20: 1 sc in each st around - 40 sts
rnd 21: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) 4 times - 44 sts
rnd 22-23: 1 sc in each st around - 44 sts
rnd 24: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts) 4 times - 48 sts
rnd 25: 1 sc in each st around - 48 sts
rnd 26: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts) 4 times - 52 sts
rnd 27: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts) 4 times - 56 sts
rnd 28: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts) 8 times - 64 sts
rnd 29- 41: 1 sc in each st around - 64 sts

check to see if it is a good size, like if it is too big. if it is too big decrease evenly for 2 rows till it is the perfect size. if it is perfect continue evenly for 2 rows.
end off gray at 43 rows

with pink, attach yarn with a single crochet near where you ended with grey and work 1 sc in the BACK LOOP ONLY for 1 row, end off pink and attach white.

TEETH
with white attached to where you ended pink and a G hook, (ch 4, sc in snd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch) skip 1 stitch and slip stitch tightly to next stitch. repeat around hat and then finish off.

EYES (make 2)
with eye color yarn and I hook ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
switch color to white and looseley sc 1 in each stitch around, join with loose slip stitch and end off with a long tail to sew
eyes should lie flat if you did this loose enough.
with black and a tapestry or yarn needle, sew a streat line from one end of the pupil to the other end.

FINS (make 3)
Note: this is kind of confusing, so you can make this however you want, you might come out with a better way than I did)

with I hook and grey yarn, work rnds 1-7 as you did tail fins
next rnd
2 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, (1 treble crochet in each of next 3 sts, but finish them off together so it is one stitch), 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in wach of next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 5 ssts, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

attach side fins at around rnd 28

here is a diagram of how it should look flat

enjoy! and if you make one i'd love to see yours
hope it's not too confusing ><